What is Khamlia village and Gnawa music?

Khamlia, 7 km south of Merzouga, is a village of Gnawa families whose hypnotic, trance-like music you can hear at the musicians’ houses over tea.

The Gnawa are descendants of sub-Saharan peoples whose spiritual music — iron castanets, bass drum, call-and-response — is now UNESCO-recognised heritage. A half-hour session with tea costs little and stays with you for years.